Bmw Torque Specs Pdf
2021年11月9日Download here: http://gg.gg/wmyx2
*Bmw Wheel Torque Spec
*Bmw E90 Torque Specs
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Tool
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Reference
*Bmw E46 Torque Specs
The ads above are Google-sponsored.
*Jointing torque. 90 ° Torque angle. 90 ° Cylinder head bolts. N40 / N42 / N45 / N46. Tightening specifications. For M8 and M10 screws are identical: Replace, wash and oil screws. Jointing torque. AZD Cylinder Head with Cover.
*Torque specs Find the most up-to-date torque spec listings in electronic format. FelPro-Only.com is your convenient source for advanced sealing information. It’s the place to learn and share “tricks of the trade,” find proper diagnosis and installation instructions, and enjoy easy access to parts reference.
*BMW M57D30 Engine Specifications & Problems Introduction. (370 lb.ft) of torque at 2000-2750 rpm, but it was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N.m.
*Torque specs Find the most up-to-date torque spec listings in electronic format. FelPro-Only.com is your convenient source for advanced sealing information. It’s the place to learn and share “tricks of the trade,” find proper diagnosis and installation instructions, and enjoy easy access to parts reference.
BMW front and rear suspension torque specs. Engine torque specs and more. Here you will find all the BMW suspension torque specs you need with easy to find diagrams. Also find all the BMW suspension part numbers with diagrams. Clicking on them at every visit helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!Torque valuesBmw Wheel Torque Spec© Copyright 2020, R. Fleischer
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
71B<>Read https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm if you have not previously, either before or after this article.
Torque is the result of force applied, via a lever. The torque value is the product of the applied force multiplied by the lever length, all as applied 90° to the direction of the force.
Torque values between systems of measurement. Foot pounds is same as pound-feet; ounce-inches is same as inch-ounces. Some values rounded.
Nm x 0.738 = foot-pounds
Foot-pounds x 1.356 = Nm
Inch-ounces = 141.6 x Nm
Foot-pounds x 192 = inch-ounces
Inch-pound x 1.15 = CmKg
Mkp (or Mkg) x 7.23 = foot-pounds
CAUTION! Bolt head sizes ..!
BMW has been shipping some bolts with one wrench size smaller heads, using the original part numbers. A dealership might have both sizes in the same box on their shelves; or, perhaps you order a bolt & get one with a different head size than you expected. You likely do not have 18 & 16 mm wrenches in your Airhead tool kit! I have seen 18 mm being substituted for 19 mm; 16 mm substituted for 17 mm. K bikes don’t generally have this problem ..most started with the even numbered sizes. Later model BMW motorcycles are using the smaller heads. There is no need to carry extra & new sizes of wrenches, if you are careful & knowledgeable ..and, ..now you ARE!
Nuts, bolts ..grading systems & standard torque values:
Fittings from Germany are specified by a grading system that is different from what is used in the U.S. for American SAE items; and, in some cases, U.S. metric fasteners are not coded the same for strength. Fittings from Germany are, of course, Metric-sized. German bolts are marked on their heads by a number that corresponds to the over-all strength, called a Grade. Ratings (grades) used in the German DIN system are, in increasing order of strength: 5.6; 6.8; 6.9; 8.8; 10.9; and 12.9. 8.8 is a fairly strong metal and thus, after manufacturer, it results in a decently strong bolt, & that grade is quite common on BMW’s. While 8.8 is now commonly available in American hardware stores, many stores carry INFERIOR bolts, often unmarked ..and in some instances you can not depend on any markings it may have. BE CAREFUL! Nuts are a bit different ..see later, herein.
BMW uses bolts rated stronger than 8.8 in some places, such as shock absorber mounts, brakes, rods, crankshaft-to-flywheel or clutch carrier; ..etc. I suggest using BMW-supplied parts! A very complete list of all sorts of BMW nuts, bolts, washers, studs, and other items, is in my hardware article. In some instances BMW uses specially made & treated items. Don’t even think about using non-BMW fasteners for the driveshaft U-joint, flywheel or clutch carrier, rods..
There are standardized tables for recommended tightening torque for fasteners. The purpose of the tables as shown in the BMW Factory Service Manual is for those rare instances when there is no BMW specification elsewhere’s for torque for an item. It will be quite rare that you would have to consult those tables. The tables have the size of the fastener (M6, M8, M12, etc.) & optimum tightening torque for the grade of metal. In the DIN (German normal standards) system, bolts & nuts are assumed to be phosphate treated, no after-treatment, not galvanized. Separate or included in the same tables may be information if the steel parts are cadmium plated, or otherwise treated; ~30% less torque is recommended for cadmium plated parts. Cadmium plated parts are hardly available anymore from Europe. Tables are different for NUTS; nuts are rated as 8, 10, & 12 in strength ..with the same sort of variances for plating, lubrication, etc. Thus, a nut & bolt may have slightly different ratings. As a general rule, there are standards for all the various types of headed screws, bolts, etc. If no specification by BMW for your specific fastener/location, you can usually use standard table values. ASK on the Airheads List!
Warning!
Standardized charts/tables for general torque specifications for fasteners are almost always wrong for gasketed joints, joints of soft materials, and steel threaded items into various aluminum alloys. Closer values will be found in the BMW DIN standards chart located in the factory manuals ..BUT! ..because of the potential for serious damage, I do not list standardized values, only specific item values. I advise you to not use standardized values, whether industry type, or BMW charts... except as a last resort, particularly where I do not show a value in this article.
FIRST check this article, well-below, and see if I have a torque value for you!
I DO HAVE the BMW factory manual tables for ’common hardware’ torque values, strengths, etc. These are specific to types & sizes and ’treatments’ of such as bolts, but not specific for any place on your bike they are used at. I have thought about copying the charts and making them available by link in this article, but haven’t found any need, so far, and, I have strong concerns if you used such charts/table values, and not what is in the lower part of this article. The chart tables can be considerably wrong, for specific items, that BMW has specified the torque for, or, that I have.
Cadmium plating:
BMW is shipping parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that are NO LONGER cadmium plated due to European environmental rules. These non-plated parts tend to RUST! These parts are chemically treated in a different way now, & nearly always OK at the original specified torque as used when they were cadmium plated, assuming the original specs used are in Nm. Unfortunately, there is no information on any of this, NOR any values to use if the parts are removed and then reinstalled, which DOES have an effect, sometimes a goodly one, on repeated fastening and unfastening torque values, not to mention the large reduction of any protective coating. This sort of thing has been going on a long time; and, has been quite prominent for some manufacturer’s spark plugs, which are fine if installed only once. If removed and reinstalled, then antiseize usually has to be added and the torque lessened a bit. Very few folks know these things. Until this is straightened-out (perhaps never), I suggest you use a faint trace of antiseize compound (where appropriate ONLY) and then reinstall at original torque values, or less (you need to be informed on that!). Try to obtain old original parts when yours need replacement ..in most instances (?) the part numbers are the same, & the dealership might have the cadmium plated ones under the SAME part number and even in the SAME box ..SO ASK.
LOCTITE:
With clean & dry threads to begin with, most types of Loctite cause UP TO ~15% increase in actual torque because Loctite acts as a very mild lubricant. This is the maximum effect. Because of the safety factor of parts strengths & typical usages, this effect of Loctite is usually ignored, as far as torque wrench settings are concerned. IMO, the effect is similar to the threads without Loctite, but with a faint trace of oil.
ANTISEIZE COMPOUND:
When using antiseize compound ..you SHOULD, and in many instances such as spark plug threads, MUST, allow for the change in effective torque (18-30% with anti-seize compound). USUALLY the only place on your Airhead you need to reduce the torque for, if the item has anti-seize compound on it, is at the spark plugs. I am a bit more anal about the subject, and tend to reduce torque SOME, with anti-seize compound, at such as the bolts/studs that hold the transmission to the engine, the Universal Joint at the rear of the transmission (where I usually use a mild Loctite, and not an antiseize compound), and some other places.
NEVER-EVER USE ANY ANTISEIZE OR LUBRICANT PRODUCT AT WHEEL BOLTS, NUTS, CONE FITTINGS, ETC., THAT HOLD THE REAR WHEEL OF YOUR BMW AIRHEAD OR CLASSIC K-BIKE TO THE REAR DRIVE. THIS MEANS MONOLOVER AND PARALEVER BIKES! If you find that your motorcycle has had antiseize used at the rear drive threads for those parts, or the parts themselves, do a very thorough job of cleaning the material off, using brushes and solvents. Leave all threads clean and totally dry. Torque only with a torque wrench unless in an emergency field situation. BMW torque values are for clean and dry threads at these particular places. Failure to follow my directions can result in a wheel departing the motorcycle!
Errors in literature from BMW ..this includes Clymers ..Haynes ..etc., ..when listed in foot pounds ..(BMW original errors are often carried forward into Clymers & Haynes books):
BMW of North America published a Service Bulletin, Volume II, NO. 23, Dated 3/82. I will quote some from that bulletin: ’May we advise you that from now on, any published BMW conversions found in brackets immediately behind the millimeter figures in all service literature (riders manuals, shop manuals, etc.) should not be used. Recent experience has shown that use of these figures has caused some major, expense errors by either a dealer service department, a customer, or an independent machine shop. Please inform all customers upon purchase of a shop manual, and also those customers that you are aware of that have one in their possession.’ This was signed by Herb Neas, National Service Manager. ’
There are errors above ..if you are a strict interpreter of words (millimeter should be metric Nm for instance; and ’from now on’).
What all this REALLY means:
When BMW has a published torque figure, it is ’usually’ OK as shown in Nm, (I say ’usually’ because sometimes I think BMW torque values at SOME PLACES are somewhat too high). DO NOT use BMW’s foot-pounds figures. I suggest that you calculate those yourself (Nm x 0.74 is foot-pounds). Clymers, Haynes, etc., have often copied BMW’s figures for Nm & foot-pounds & thus MAY have continued to carry forward the errors!..so be cautious. I personally know of errors even in the Factory Workshop Manuals. See article on this website: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm
Torque figures in the rest of this article are values Snowbum uses, & believes to be best, proper, .. & safe.
There have been NUMEROUS instances in which someone has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures. This question usually arises because using a torque wrench at the limited clearance area of the driveshaft U-Joint bolts usually requires an adaptor, and BMW AND OTHERS sell adaptors ..which ’can’ add to the working-length of the torque wrench, thereby INcreasing the true bolt torque value from that set on the torque wrench; unless the adaptor is used at exactly 90°.
I know of no instances, on any BMW Airhead motorcycle, where the factory specification for torque is anything other that the ACTUAL torque on the fastener..with the exception of the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, where BMW has said that for certain items you must torque to a certain value which is then followed by a certain number of additional rotational degrees of tightening.
For all others but the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R rod bolts or other such specified angular tightening, this means the torque figure is the value applied to the bolt itself. This is standard for industry & applies unless specifically noted to be different.
For the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, see the note well below, under Section 11-Engine, Rod Bolts.
The torque to be applied to a bolt or nut is the factory specified torque. You MUST calculate the adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90° to the torque wrench. In every instance (except at 90°), where the effective length of the torque wrench is increased, the torque wrench will need to be set to a value LESS than the specified value for the bolt. See the following article on how to do this: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IncTorqWr.htm
NORMALLY a torque wrench adaptor is used STRAIGHT-OUT from the torque wrench.
It is quite common for more modern vehicles to have a bolt or other item specified to be torqued to a stated value, and then the item is tightened further, by a number of rotational degrees as shown on a dial.
SLASH 2 information:
/2 information is in Jeff Dean’s article, which describes the /2 series rather well:
http://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm
Most of the rest of this article is divided into SECTIONS. Section numbers correspond to the identical numbers that BMW uses in its literature. Those two digits are often the first digits in an item’s part number.
Section 11-Engine:
Cylinder heads:
The 4 rocker arm stud & nut threads are to be oily. If they squeak, remove nut, oil immediately, & immediately re-tighten. Cylinder stud nuts are to be evenly cross-torqued, staging at ~10, ~18, & then CAREFULLY to a final value of 25 ftlbs. I ALWAYS use a final value target of 25 foot-pounds for ALL models ..even though I know pre-Nikasil models were specified at 29-31 foot-pounds in SOME old literature. I do NOT consider it safe to torque higher than a true 26 foot-pounds on any Airhead model, & that is with a known good, calibrated torque wrench. After the first torqueing after the heads have been off, for each later re-torqueing, do not back off all 6 nuts at once, just do one at a time. If setting end play, do one rocker at a time. The idea is that you will not have more than one or two of the nuts loose, in comparison to the others, for very long. Time is involved, as I think the metal will move, so don’t leave things unbalanced and loose.
M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models through 1978: 4 foot-pounds, which is 48 inch-pounds MAXIMUM! Be careful! It is good to use a FRESH waverly washer. It is not unusual to find that someone has over-torqued this nut; yet the camshaft threaded stub end is not yet broken (& maybe not yet visibly cracked). Thus, the threads could already be weakened. Be very cautious. I always torque this nut with my experienced hand, with a very small 4 (max 6) inch wrench. If you do not have a good feel for torque, especially torque that breaks things, use a torque wrench. Use 24 to 30 INCH-pounds to start with, and preferably a fresh waverly washer. If you have an INCH-OUNCE wrench, guess how you calculate inch-ounces? Yes, the conversion factor is near the top of this page. Your day (+) is ruined if you snap off the tip! So, be careful!!! The cam can be repaired in a couple of ways. See cams article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
Rocker arm adjustment lock nut:
13-16 foot-pounds (some say 12, & I am OK with that, less likely for thread problems). I do it by feel.
Valve cover center acorn nut:
14 foot-pounds (I am cautious, & do it by feel). I never tighten it as tight as specifications. LOOK at the far inner end of this associated stud. It goes through the head and appears next to the spark plug. If ALL the threads in the head are not engaged by the stud, you must decide if to remove the stud & reset it deeper (if the acorn nut with its washer will still have enough threads engaged); or, install BMW’s LONGER stud, which BMW supplies just for this particular purpose. See: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hardware.htm.
Outer metal cover, front of engine:
~5.5 foot-pounds
Engine to frame:
55 foot-pounds.
Crankshaft rod bolts:
ALWAYS use new ones. Not rusty. Low viscosity oil, oiled threads, 36 foot-pounds. Special tri-tool needed, see tools article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tools.htm. R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: specifications are 15 foot-pounds, then 40 degrees more. I don’t like that method all that much.
Crankshaft front bearing assembly (carrier): Most will be torqued at approximately 17ftlbs. See later, herein.
Flywheel bolts:
There have been a lot of different BMW specifications on flywheel bolt torque values over the years. I had previously used (clean & dry or faintest oil film from an oily cleaning solvent) torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 & earlier engines with the 10 mm bolts. For the 1974 I used 52-55 ftlbs and for 1975 & later models with 11 mm bolts I used about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I have not changed that..except for the 11 mm bolts I use a faint oil sheen and 75-80 ftlbs. Some aftermarket literature will show different flywheel bolt torques for different engine sizes for the same year. Disregard such advice. The big difference is in the size of the bolts, with the earlier 10 mm bolts using substantially less torque.
1981 & later:
BMW’s last specification change was in S.I. 11-049-91 (2495); this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, illustration G23. The SI stated that while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned threads, & the threads were to be OILED! BMW specifically said that the bolts would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, & could be REUSED! I will NOT tighten them that tight. Makes me very nervous! However, at least one Pro does oil and tighten to 90ftlbs, & I have heard of no problems reported. It is YOUR CHOICE. NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, & applies to 1981+ models. For whatever reason, BMW did not mention much earlier model details, nor did it mention that the 11 mm bolts were used far earlier than 1981.
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
*Bmw Wheel Torque Spec
*Bmw E90 Torque Specs
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Tool
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Reference
*Bmw E46 Torque Specs
The ads above are Google-sponsored.
*Jointing torque. 90 ° Torque angle. 90 ° Cylinder head bolts. N40 / N42 / N45 / N46. Tightening specifications. For M8 and M10 screws are identical: Replace, wash and oil screws. Jointing torque. AZD Cylinder Head with Cover.
*Torque specs Find the most up-to-date torque spec listings in electronic format. FelPro-Only.com is your convenient source for advanced sealing information. It’s the place to learn and share “tricks of the trade,” find proper diagnosis and installation instructions, and enjoy easy access to parts reference.
*BMW M57D30 Engine Specifications & Problems Introduction. (370 lb.ft) of torque at 2000-2750 rpm, but it was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N.m.
*Torque specs Find the most up-to-date torque spec listings in electronic format. FelPro-Only.com is your convenient source for advanced sealing information. It’s the place to learn and share “tricks of the trade,” find proper diagnosis and installation instructions, and enjoy easy access to parts reference.
BMW front and rear suspension torque specs. Engine torque specs and more. Here you will find all the BMW suspension torque specs you need with easy to find diagrams. Also find all the BMW suspension part numbers with diagrams. Clicking on them at every visit helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!Torque valuesBmw Wheel Torque Spec© Copyright 2020, R. Fleischer
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
71B<>Read https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm if you have not previously, either before or after this article.
Torque is the result of force applied, via a lever. The torque value is the product of the applied force multiplied by the lever length, all as applied 90° to the direction of the force.
Torque values between systems of measurement. Foot pounds is same as pound-feet; ounce-inches is same as inch-ounces. Some values rounded.
Nm x 0.738 = foot-pounds
Foot-pounds x 1.356 = Nm
Inch-ounces = 141.6 x Nm
Foot-pounds x 192 = inch-ounces
Inch-pound x 1.15 = CmKg
Mkp (or Mkg) x 7.23 = foot-pounds
CAUTION! Bolt head sizes ..!
BMW has been shipping some bolts with one wrench size smaller heads, using the original part numbers. A dealership might have both sizes in the same box on their shelves; or, perhaps you order a bolt & get one with a different head size than you expected. You likely do not have 18 & 16 mm wrenches in your Airhead tool kit! I have seen 18 mm being substituted for 19 mm; 16 mm substituted for 17 mm. K bikes don’t generally have this problem ..most started with the even numbered sizes. Later model BMW motorcycles are using the smaller heads. There is no need to carry extra & new sizes of wrenches, if you are careful & knowledgeable ..and, ..now you ARE!
Nuts, bolts ..grading systems & standard torque values:
Fittings from Germany are specified by a grading system that is different from what is used in the U.S. for American SAE items; and, in some cases, U.S. metric fasteners are not coded the same for strength. Fittings from Germany are, of course, Metric-sized. German bolts are marked on their heads by a number that corresponds to the over-all strength, called a Grade. Ratings (grades) used in the German DIN system are, in increasing order of strength: 5.6; 6.8; 6.9; 8.8; 10.9; and 12.9. 8.8 is a fairly strong metal and thus, after manufacturer, it results in a decently strong bolt, & that grade is quite common on BMW’s. While 8.8 is now commonly available in American hardware stores, many stores carry INFERIOR bolts, often unmarked ..and in some instances you can not depend on any markings it may have. BE CAREFUL! Nuts are a bit different ..see later, herein.
BMW uses bolts rated stronger than 8.8 in some places, such as shock absorber mounts, brakes, rods, crankshaft-to-flywheel or clutch carrier; ..etc. I suggest using BMW-supplied parts! A very complete list of all sorts of BMW nuts, bolts, washers, studs, and other items, is in my hardware article. In some instances BMW uses specially made & treated items. Don’t even think about using non-BMW fasteners for the driveshaft U-joint, flywheel or clutch carrier, rods..
There are standardized tables for recommended tightening torque for fasteners. The purpose of the tables as shown in the BMW Factory Service Manual is for those rare instances when there is no BMW specification elsewhere’s for torque for an item. It will be quite rare that you would have to consult those tables. The tables have the size of the fastener (M6, M8, M12, etc.) & optimum tightening torque for the grade of metal. In the DIN (German normal standards) system, bolts & nuts are assumed to be phosphate treated, no after-treatment, not galvanized. Separate or included in the same tables may be information if the steel parts are cadmium plated, or otherwise treated; ~30% less torque is recommended for cadmium plated parts. Cadmium plated parts are hardly available anymore from Europe. Tables are different for NUTS; nuts are rated as 8, 10, & 12 in strength ..with the same sort of variances for plating, lubrication, etc. Thus, a nut & bolt may have slightly different ratings. As a general rule, there are standards for all the various types of headed screws, bolts, etc. If no specification by BMW for your specific fastener/location, you can usually use standard table values. ASK on the Airheads List!
Warning!
Standardized charts/tables for general torque specifications for fasteners are almost always wrong for gasketed joints, joints of soft materials, and steel threaded items into various aluminum alloys. Closer values will be found in the BMW DIN standards chart located in the factory manuals ..BUT! ..because of the potential for serious damage, I do not list standardized values, only specific item values. I advise you to not use standardized values, whether industry type, or BMW charts... except as a last resort, particularly where I do not show a value in this article.
FIRST check this article, well-below, and see if I have a torque value for you!
I DO HAVE the BMW factory manual tables for ’common hardware’ torque values, strengths, etc. These are specific to types & sizes and ’treatments’ of such as bolts, but not specific for any place on your bike they are used at. I have thought about copying the charts and making them available by link in this article, but haven’t found any need, so far, and, I have strong concerns if you used such charts/table values, and not what is in the lower part of this article. The chart tables can be considerably wrong, for specific items, that BMW has specified the torque for, or, that I have.
Cadmium plating:
BMW is shipping parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that are NO LONGER cadmium plated due to European environmental rules. These non-plated parts tend to RUST! These parts are chemically treated in a different way now, & nearly always OK at the original specified torque as used when they were cadmium plated, assuming the original specs used are in Nm. Unfortunately, there is no information on any of this, NOR any values to use if the parts are removed and then reinstalled, which DOES have an effect, sometimes a goodly one, on repeated fastening and unfastening torque values, not to mention the large reduction of any protective coating. This sort of thing has been going on a long time; and, has been quite prominent for some manufacturer’s spark plugs, which are fine if installed only once. If removed and reinstalled, then antiseize usually has to be added and the torque lessened a bit. Very few folks know these things. Until this is straightened-out (perhaps never), I suggest you use a faint trace of antiseize compound (where appropriate ONLY) and then reinstall at original torque values, or less (you need to be informed on that!). Try to obtain old original parts when yours need replacement ..in most instances (?) the part numbers are the same, & the dealership might have the cadmium plated ones under the SAME part number and even in the SAME box ..SO ASK.
LOCTITE:
With clean & dry threads to begin with, most types of Loctite cause UP TO ~15% increase in actual torque because Loctite acts as a very mild lubricant. This is the maximum effect. Because of the safety factor of parts strengths & typical usages, this effect of Loctite is usually ignored, as far as torque wrench settings are concerned. IMO, the effect is similar to the threads without Loctite, but with a faint trace of oil.
ANTISEIZE COMPOUND:
When using antiseize compound ..you SHOULD, and in many instances such as spark plug threads, MUST, allow for the change in effective torque (18-30% with anti-seize compound). USUALLY the only place on your Airhead you need to reduce the torque for, if the item has anti-seize compound on it, is at the spark plugs. I am a bit more anal about the subject, and tend to reduce torque SOME, with anti-seize compound, at such as the bolts/studs that hold the transmission to the engine, the Universal Joint at the rear of the transmission (where I usually use a mild Loctite, and not an antiseize compound), and some other places.
NEVER-EVER USE ANY ANTISEIZE OR LUBRICANT PRODUCT AT WHEEL BOLTS, NUTS, CONE FITTINGS, ETC., THAT HOLD THE REAR WHEEL OF YOUR BMW AIRHEAD OR CLASSIC K-BIKE TO THE REAR DRIVE. THIS MEANS MONOLOVER AND PARALEVER BIKES! If you find that your motorcycle has had antiseize used at the rear drive threads for those parts, or the parts themselves, do a very thorough job of cleaning the material off, using brushes and solvents. Leave all threads clean and totally dry. Torque only with a torque wrench unless in an emergency field situation. BMW torque values are for clean and dry threads at these particular places. Failure to follow my directions can result in a wheel departing the motorcycle!
Errors in literature from BMW ..this includes Clymers ..Haynes ..etc., ..when listed in foot pounds ..(BMW original errors are often carried forward into Clymers & Haynes books):
BMW of North America published a Service Bulletin, Volume II, NO. 23, Dated 3/82. I will quote some from that bulletin: ’May we advise you that from now on, any published BMW conversions found in brackets immediately behind the millimeter figures in all service literature (riders manuals, shop manuals, etc.) should not be used. Recent experience has shown that use of these figures has caused some major, expense errors by either a dealer service department, a customer, or an independent machine shop. Please inform all customers upon purchase of a shop manual, and also those customers that you are aware of that have one in their possession.’ This was signed by Herb Neas, National Service Manager. ’
There are errors above ..if you are a strict interpreter of words (millimeter should be metric Nm for instance; and ’from now on’).
What all this REALLY means:
When BMW has a published torque figure, it is ’usually’ OK as shown in Nm, (I say ’usually’ because sometimes I think BMW torque values at SOME PLACES are somewhat too high). DO NOT use BMW’s foot-pounds figures. I suggest that you calculate those yourself (Nm x 0.74 is foot-pounds). Clymers, Haynes, etc., have often copied BMW’s figures for Nm & foot-pounds & thus MAY have continued to carry forward the errors!..so be cautious. I personally know of errors even in the Factory Workshop Manuals. See article on this website: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm
Torque figures in the rest of this article are values Snowbum uses, & believes to be best, proper, .. & safe.
There have been NUMEROUS instances in which someone has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures. This question usually arises because using a torque wrench at the limited clearance area of the driveshaft U-Joint bolts usually requires an adaptor, and BMW AND OTHERS sell adaptors ..which ’can’ add to the working-length of the torque wrench, thereby INcreasing the true bolt torque value from that set on the torque wrench; unless the adaptor is used at exactly 90°.
I know of no instances, on any BMW Airhead motorcycle, where the factory specification for torque is anything other that the ACTUAL torque on the fastener..with the exception of the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, where BMW has said that for certain items you must torque to a certain value which is then followed by a certain number of additional rotational degrees of tightening.
For all others but the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R rod bolts or other such specified angular tightening, this means the torque figure is the value applied to the bolt itself. This is standard for industry & applies unless specifically noted to be different.
For the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, see the note well below, under Section 11-Engine, Rod Bolts.
The torque to be applied to a bolt or nut is the factory specified torque. You MUST calculate the adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90° to the torque wrench. In every instance (except at 90°), where the effective length of the torque wrench is increased, the torque wrench will need to be set to a value LESS than the specified value for the bolt. See the following article on how to do this: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IncTorqWr.htm
NORMALLY a torque wrench adaptor is used STRAIGHT-OUT from the torque wrench.
It is quite common for more modern vehicles to have a bolt or other item specified to be torqued to a stated value, and then the item is tightened further, by a number of rotational degrees as shown on a dial.
SLASH 2 information:
/2 information is in Jeff Dean’s article, which describes the /2 series rather well:
http://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm
Most of the rest of this article is divided into SECTIONS. Section numbers correspond to the identical numbers that BMW uses in its literature. Those two digits are often the first digits in an item’s part number.
Section 11-Engine:
Cylinder heads:
The 4 rocker arm stud & nut threads are to be oily. If they squeak, remove nut, oil immediately, & immediately re-tighten. Cylinder stud nuts are to be evenly cross-torqued, staging at ~10, ~18, & then CAREFULLY to a final value of 25 ftlbs. I ALWAYS use a final value target of 25 foot-pounds for ALL models ..even though I know pre-Nikasil models were specified at 29-31 foot-pounds in SOME old literature. I do NOT consider it safe to torque higher than a true 26 foot-pounds on any Airhead model, & that is with a known good, calibrated torque wrench. After the first torqueing after the heads have been off, for each later re-torqueing, do not back off all 6 nuts at once, just do one at a time. If setting end play, do one rocker at a time. The idea is that you will not have more than one or two of the nuts loose, in comparison to the others, for very long. Time is involved, as I think the metal will move, so don’t leave things unbalanced and loose.
M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models through 1978: 4 foot-pounds, which is 48 inch-pounds MAXIMUM! Be careful! It is good to use a FRESH waverly washer. It is not unusual to find that someone has over-torqued this nut; yet the camshaft threaded stub end is not yet broken (& maybe not yet visibly cracked). Thus, the threads could already be weakened. Be very cautious. I always torque this nut with my experienced hand, with a very small 4 (max 6) inch wrench. If you do not have a good feel for torque, especially torque that breaks things, use a torque wrench. Use 24 to 30 INCH-pounds to start with, and preferably a fresh waverly washer. If you have an INCH-OUNCE wrench, guess how you calculate inch-ounces? Yes, the conversion factor is near the top of this page. Your day (+) is ruined if you snap off the tip! So, be careful!!! The cam can be repaired in a couple of ways. See cams article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
Rocker arm adjustment lock nut:
13-16 foot-pounds (some say 12, & I am OK with that, less likely for thread problems). I do it by feel.
Valve cover center acorn nut:
14 foot-pounds (I am cautious, & do it by feel). I never tighten it as tight as specifications. LOOK at the far inner end of this associated stud. It goes through the head and appears next to the spark plug. If ALL the threads in the head are not engaged by the stud, you must decide if to remove the stud & reset it deeper (if the acorn nut with its washer will still have enough threads engaged); or, install BMW’s LONGER stud, which BMW supplies just for this particular purpose. See: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hardware.htm.
Outer metal cover, front of engine:
~5.5 foot-pounds
Engine to frame:
55 foot-pounds.
Crankshaft rod bolts:
ALWAYS use new ones. Not rusty. Low viscosity oil, oiled threads, 36 foot-pounds. Special tri-tool needed, see tools article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tools.htm. R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: specifications are 15 foot-pounds, then 40 degrees more. I don’t like that method all that much.
Crankshaft front bearing assembly (carrier): Most will be torqued at approximately 17ftlbs. See later, herein.
Flywheel bolts:
There have been a lot of different BMW specifications on flywheel bolt torque values over the years. I had previously used (clean & dry or faintest oil film from an oily cleaning solvent) torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 & earlier engines with the 10 mm bolts. For the 1974 I used 52-55 ftlbs and for 1975 & later models with 11 mm bolts I used about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I have not changed that..except for the 11 mm bolts I use a faint oil sheen and 75-80 ftlbs. Some aftermarket literature will show different flywheel bolt torques for different engine sizes for the same year. Disregard such advice. The big difference is in the size of the bolts, with the earlier 10 mm bolts using substantially less torque.
1981 & later:
BMW’s last specification change was in S.I. 11-049-91 (2495); this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, illustration G23. The SI stated that while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned threads, & the threads were to be OILED! BMW specifically said that the bolts would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, & could be REUSED! I will NOT tighten them that tight. Makes me very nervous! However, at least one Pro does oil and tighten to 90ftlbs, & I have heard of no problems reported. It is YOUR CHOICE. NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, & applies to 1981+ models. For whatever reason, BMW did not mention much earlier model details, nor did it mention that the 11 mm bolts were used far earlier than 1981.
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